AJIJIC, MEXICO, “A DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH” (BEST LEFT UNDISCOVERED?)
By Ed Leonard
Mexico is a large country of some 130 million people. Like Canada, it is mostly empty with vast mountain ranges, many forested areas, flatlands and farms, with relatively few large, urbanized areas. It has over 9,000 km of coastline, but there is only one freshwater lake of any size. That is Lake Chapala, about 560 km west of Mexico City. It is about the size of lake St. Clair, that small body if water between Lake Huron and Lake Erie.
The Chapala region (approximately 55,000 people) is home to the largest concentration of American and Canadian residents anywhere in Mexico. Most of these people reside in a contiguous 40 km-long string of towns and communities along the north shore of the lake, with soaring hills forming a backdrop and containment for this developed zone.
In the 1970s my wife’s parents discovered the Lake Chapala area, and specifically the town of Ajijic (pronounced Ahh-hee-heek). They were attracted by the temperate climate year-round, and the incredible array of amenities They discovered a vibrant, diversified populace of native Mexicans and expats from Canada, the USA and Europe, and an extensive selection of goods and services that were incredibly affordable at that time. Foreign expats co-exist in peaceful harmony with the Spanish-speaking population, who are friendly, industrious, and accommodating.
In 1998, at the age of 79, my father-in-law decided to build his own place in an upscale community called La Floresta. He built a large main house (casa), and a guest house (casita) in a walled compound on a large corner lot. Using a well-known local architect, they incorporated local building vernacular, including vaulted boveda ceilings, a sheltered cochera (carport), large terrace areas, and usable rooftop areas. These elements incorporate natural air flow and comfort without reliance on expensive HVAC installations.
My wife and I first visited Ajijic in 2000, and since 2015 we have made annual trips to the area, generally with other family members. What we enjoy most is the remarkable friendliness and hospitality of the people, a fabulous array of culture and commerce, and new and diverse experiences.
The Chapala region has been a longstanding destination where seniors can retire and own or rent properties, to escape harsh northern winters. In recent years, that demographic has changed somewhat, in that people are retiring earlier and travelling more, so many younger people have come to appreciate what the area has to offer.
Many artists, architects and other professionals have chosen to be here to enjoy the climate, vibrant colours, vitality and a relaxed, welcoming environment. The arts and culture aspects abound and are well recognized through numerous organizations such as the Lake Chapala Society that provides facilities and services for people to interact with one another.
Charles Pachter, a renowned Canadian contemporary artist has been a regular visitor to the area, and recently purchased a villa in town, moving rooms full of art and eclectic furniture to his new home. He will add this destination to his studio homes in Toronto and Orillia.
COMMUNITY CHARACTER / BUILT FORM
Smaller towns in Mexico have a comfortable, colourful, low-rise human scale, with very few buildings more than three stories high. In most towns, churches typically provide points of reference, complemented by wonderful public squares, parks and market areas.
Working in urban design and planning in Canada, I had to adhere to many rules and planning conventions like setbacks, minimum separation distances, density and the like. What I like about the small Mexican towns is the controlled chaos of districts that are organized—organically and structurally—but alive.
Despite a typical town grid road pattern, the built form here feels more vital, intimate and comfortable than in Canadian and American cities. Roads are narrow and buildings tightly clustered, adding to the more intimate scale of the communities. Sadly, the streets and sidewalks are dusty, dirty and in disrepair because of the poverty prevalent throughout.
Many buildings in Mexican towns are uniquely differentiated with vivid pastel colours, and modern architectural styles are seamlessly blended with indigenous structures. Homes and businesses in the central areas are often animated with murals depicting historical or local life and culture. Sculptures and other adornments further complement this character.
Newer developments with a more North American character are typically found in gated communities and areas on the periphery of the old towns, often built on the steep hills bordering the older towns.
ROADS, PEDESTRIAN PRECINCTS AND MALECONS
The roads in most of the communities consist of cobblestones, solidly installed using techniques and practices that are centuries old. I liken walking on these roads to walking on a bed of softballs—not easy to negotiate on foot. Most of the time, I have to look down at the ground so I don’t trip on the cobblestones, giant potholes and sidewalks that are heaved, broken, non-continuous and so on. All of these elements cause me to walk slowly and carefully, creating a bit more time to appreciate the vast array of spontaneous streetscapes and disparate building types.
It is not unusual to see men on horses on the roadways and cattle, goats and chickens on properties fronting these roads. Dogs run freely around town.
"Malecon" is a Spanish word, most commonly referring to a stone-built embankment or esplanade along a waterfront. It can also describe a public space, often a promenade situated alongside a body of water, not unlike the Boardwalk in Toronto’s Beaches district or the combined bike paths/walkways that run all along Toronto’s waterfront. These features occur in growing numbers along the shores of Lake Chapala, providing opportunities for recreation and exercise. It is common to find street performers and entertainers in the park areas adjacent to the Malecon pathways.
COMMERCE IS EVERYWHERE
Many buildings or homes on all streets are open for trade and commerce in a most welcoming and understated way. One person’s living room might feature goods for sale—everything from food to baked goods to socks and dresses—next to a barber shop, or an auto mechanic, or one of the hundreds of places to eat.
There are many more hardware stores, paint stores and metal working shops than one would see anywhere else, and it has been said that Ajijic has more good restaurants and eateries than any town of its size in the world. Cuisine ranges from good value street food to five-star haute cuisine in fine establishments at three-star prices, and I have yet to have an unsatisfactory meal.
Street peddlers abound, and each town has its designated market day when an entire street or series of roads and alleys are closed to traffic. They fill up with vendors, food providers and merchants of all kinds selling their wares. Walking through these markets is a unique experience to say the least. To find any comparable environment at home, one needs to go to places like Toronto’s Kensington or St. Lawrence Market, Ottawa’s ByWay Market, or Vancouver’s Granville Island, as examples.
LOCAL TRANSPORTATION
Inter-city and local buses are the principal forms of public transportation. There are taxis, but they are relatively expensive for the local population, and people tend to walk or cycle everywhere. The use of motorcycles, mopeds, electrified bikes, and electric tricycles is extensive, and being a pedestrian can entail significant risks anywhere. Care is always required.
I personally love riding the buses as an experience unlike anything we are used to. Very few of the buses are air conditioned and they cram in as many people as possible at times. A local fare is typically about 10 pesos, or 75 cents Canadian at current exchange rates, and a rider can travel any distance on the entire 30 km run between the lakeside communities for the single fare. Guitar carrying minstrels will often entertain passengers and the drivers often have radios playing.
These drivers show practised skill in negotiating the narrow cobblestone side streets, impossibly tight corners, parked cars, and people. Many drivers are oblivious to the comfort and safety of their passengers, often driving fast, only to jam on the brakes when approaching a stop, causing everyone to hang on for their lives.
VALUE FOR THE DOLLAR/PESO
At the time of this writing, the Mexican Peso is worth about $0.08 CAD, or $0.05 USD. For Canadian and American travellers and residents, the purchasing power of our dollars is great. The Mexican government ensures that some price controls for fuel, utilities, etc., are in place, as the local population is quite poor by our standards.
At this time, some critics are saying that the Lake Chapala area could be a victim of its own success, but our family and friends intend to continue our travels to Ajijic and the Chapala region.
As my father-in-law would say Ajijic is a “Town Best Left Undiscovered.”
All photos by Author.
